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The Endearing Petite Laughing Jumeau
By Stephanie Ehmen, TCDMEd.

Emile Jumeau started a line of character dolls in the early 1890's. The head models included exotic ethnic characters, exaggerated children's expressions, and heads for automata (dolls that moved when wound). While some of these faces were quite shocking, they were artfully sculpted with sharply defined details. Some models, representing older children or young ladies with gentle expressions and sweet smiles, were quite beautiful.

In the late 1890's competition between German and French dollmakers became fierce. Germany could produce dolls cheaper and France was feeling the crunch. In 1899 group of French dollmakers joined forces forming the Societe Francaise de Fabrication de Bebes et Jouets (French Society for the Manufacture of Dolls & Toys). The mark used on the bisque heads was S.F.B.J. The manufacturers involved in the formation of S.F.B.J. included Bru, Jumeau, Blodel, Rabery & Delphieu and others, with more dollmaking companies joining them in later years.

The S.F.B.J. continued doing business through the 1920's and possibly into the 1950's. The hope of this new firm was to rejuvenate the French dollmaking industry. Jumeau included its character dolls in the list of inventory of molds transferred to the new S.F.B.J.

S.F.B.J. recognized the importance and popularity of these character faces and chose to continue the line, producing each model in various sizes. The expressions were less exaggerated and more lifelike, capturing the childish expressions that we find so endearing. It is almost astonishing how the photographs of some of these dolls could almost be those of real children.

By 1922 it is reported that S.F.B.J. employed over 2000 people in producing six million dolls that year, the majority of which were character and ethnic dolls sold all over the world. The firm sent the dolls to Paris to be dressed, where girls from all over the world competed for the opportunity to design the costumes. A Laughing Jumeau has been found in an original dress with a label reading "Au Nain Bleu", one of the famous dressmaking shops of the time.

The Petite Laughing Jumeau, marked "S.F.B.J. 236 Paris", is one of these captivating character dolls in an adorable small size. On the FB550S composition body the doll is only 7.5” (19cm) tall. I hope you too will fall in love with this endearing little doll.

Casting and Cleaning
Thin Lady White porcelain slip a bit with Slip Thinner according to directions on the bottle. This will help the slip flow in and out of the mold easier, and will help prevent the casting rings that can form in the deep parts of the mold, such as the lips. When you remove the head from the mold inspect it carefully under good light with a Head Lupe. If small rings have formed on the lips or eyelids, use a small damp KwikClean Brush to carefully smooth these areas. Soft fire to cone 018.

Before you begin cleaning the soft-fired ware assemble your tools, the eyes you will be using and most importantly, your worksheet. As you clean the head, use your fingers to feel the sculpted details. Be careful not to clean away these dips and curves, or you will loose part of the doll’s expression. Study the shape of the eyes in the picture and try to duplicate the look of the antique. Have the eyes you want to use handy so that you can try them in for fit. The eyes are 6mm round glass eyes, blue or brown, and can be set or made to sleep. Keep in mind that your eye opening will shrink slightly in firing, but notice on the worksheet that very little white shows on the sides of the eyes. The irises seem to almost fill the eye opening.

Bisque fire. After bisque firing witness cone 5 should be touching the shelf and witness cone 6 bent to the 10 or 11 o’clock position.

China Painting
Because the Laughing Jumeau was produced over about a 30 year period of time it was painted in a variety of ways. Seeley's worksheet WSFD24 includes the painting schedule and photos of three different antique dolls. As you paint your doll, be sure to use the same picture for the entire doll. If you choose brows from one doll, mouth from another, lashes from another, you will end up with a doll that does not resemble any of the photos.

Overall wash coloring varies from doll to doll and ranges from pale to purplish-red. Eyebrow color varies from light to dark brown. Adjust eyebrow color to match your doll’s wig. Eyebrows vary in length, from short and wispy to longer, darker strokes. Some eyebrows are stacked, with feathered strokes at the front. Lashes also vary. Some have only lower lashes--either brown or black--painted straight down. You will probably find sleep eyes with mohair upper lashes in these dolls. Other dolls have upper and lower lashes painted at a slant.

The doll’s mouth is an open/closed mouth, it appears to be open, but there is no opening cut out. Lip color can range from orange red to rusty red and the upper lip is turned up in the corners. The tongue is painted darker than the lips. The teeth are glossy and there is a soft line of red between the two teeth. The cheeks should be quite rosy. Study the photos carefully to discern the subtle differences and shapes.
 
Setting Sleep Eyes
Setting sleep eyes in small dolls can be a little tricky and requires patience, but the outcome is worth it. Following the techniques discussed here, you can make sleep eyes for tiny dolls and even dolls with dome heads. It is great fun to amaze your friends with a tiny sleeping baby!

The mechanism can be started before you start painting your doll. This will allow plenty of time for the eyes to "cure" while you paint the head and even make the costume. Setting sleep eyes in small heads requires a few steps that are different from setting eyes in larger dolls. Gather all your tools before starting.

Materials Needed
6 mm round glass eyes
Ruler
Calipers
Water putty or two-part epoxy
French Bisque Body Stain
Old brush
Fishing Weight (pinch type size PSS-4)
Wine bottle cork
Poster tack
Needle nose pliers with wire cutter
Small strand of Dark Brown Mohair Locks
Brown thread
Small sharp scissors
Double sided tape
Tacky glue
Toothpicks
Craft sticks
Hot melted wax or acrylic satin varnish
Petroleum jelly

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Step 1: Small size eyes usually come with wires attached. Clip this wire in half. Using the calipers, measure the distance between the centers of each eye opening.

Step 2: Punch holes in a piece of paper with tips of calipers. Mark these holes with a pen and draw a line between the two holes with a ruler. Measure the distance between the dots and mark the midway point. Using calipers again, measure the distance from center of nose to the chin, or insert a ruler into the head and measure this distance. Again, punch holes in the paper with the calipers, placing one tip on the midway point of first line drawn in Step 1 and the other tip directly below that point. Draw a line between these two holes, making a T. This T shape will be your pattern for making the eye mechanism.

Step 3: Bend wire at the back of each eye to a perpendicular position. Place wire at back of each eye on top of original two dots. Bend wires down at the center of the line that forms the top of the T shape. Be sure that the wires are bending at the exact points of the pattern.

Step 4: Twist ends of both wires together. Place a pinch type lead fishing weight at bottom of T shape. Squeeze weight tightly with pliers and bend excess wire up around the back of the weight.

Step 5: Check fit of eye mechanism by placing eyes into position. The eyes should be focused in the eye openings, and the weight should rest in the deep part of the chin. Bend wires until you achieve proper fit. Gently rotate the eyes to determine whether the weight hits the back of the head when the eyes are closed. If so, place a small slice of a wine bottle cork on this spot to prevent the weight from cracking the head. Test again to make sure the eyes can still close completely. Knead a small amount of poster tack by pulling it until it becomes soft and a little sticky. Place a small piece over each eye from the front to hold eyes in position.

Step 6: The bridge between the eyes on the mechanism can be made with either water putty or two-part epoxy. I prefer the epoxy because it sets quickly and is easy to work with. If using water putty, mix it to a very thick consistency. You should be able to gently mold it into a short "worm". Place "worm" over wires between the eyes and gently press it over and around wires. This bridge should come down over the wires at the back of the eyes, but make sure that it does not extend out too far, as it will interfere with the rocking of the eyes. Allow water putty or epoxy to set well.

Step 7: To make lashes place a piece of double sided tape on work surface, leaving ends of tape loose. Snip from a strand of Mohair Locks a small bit of the short hair, just below the stitching. The blunt cut ends will work well for making lashes. Spread hairs evenly across about ½" of one edge of the tape with the cut ends facing out. Press hair onto the tape with a toothpick. Run a piece of brown thread through a puddle of glue and place over hairs along the edge of the tape. With toothpick, press thread onto the hairs to work glue into the hair. When glue is dry, pick up tape and carefully cut hairs along edge of tape. Snip thread in half to make two sets of lashes.

Step 8: Place small line of glue across each eyeball along top of iris. Place lashes on top of glue and let dry. Trim threads and fit eyes into doll. If lashes are too wide they will hamper the opening and closing of the eyes. Trim any excess from the sides and from the length if necessary. Lashes should be short and stubby.

Step 9: Work a lump of poster tack until it is soft. Set to one side. Mix Seeley's French Bisque Body Stain with a craft stick. Stir gently to avoid bubbles forming. Holding eye mechanism by the weight, lower it into the stain, allowing stain to just meet the thread line of the lashes. If the stain soaks into the lashes, rinse well with water, allow water to dry and try again. Use an old brush to spread the paint on the back and underside of the mechanism. Push weight into the poster tack with eyes leaning back and let mechanism dry. Repeat this process until the Body Stain forms a nice smooth "cap" over the eye. Important: Body stain is an acrylic paint. It will dry in a few hours, but can take days to "cure". After I have obtained the desired thickness, I allow the eyes to set for up to 10 days, or until I can press my fingernail into the paint on the back of the eye without leaving a mark. At this stage, the paint will have formed a hard shell.

Step 10: Melt wax until very hot (please be careful!) Dip eyes into the wax and let cool. If I have time, I prefer to use acrylic satin varnish instead of wax. This can be purchased at craft stores. Mix the varnish well and dip the eyes just as you dipped into the paint. The varnish makes a nice smooth finish to the eyes, but will take time to "cure".

Step 11: Glue a small piece of cork in chin. Smooth a small amount of petroleum jelly onto outside of both eyes. This will keep the water putty from adhering to the eyes. Place eyes into position in the eye sockets, checking to make sure they are focused. You may need to use needle nose pliers or stringing clamps to lower eyes into the head

Step 12: Mix water putty to a very thick consistency. Scoop up a small amount with a toothpick. Gently tap toothpick against side of head until putty falls down around the outside of the eye, forming a kidney shape. Allow putty to set until it no longer looks shiny.

Step 13: Use a toothpick to reach into the neck opening and gently lift the weight. Place your finger on the bridge of the eyes to hold it in place and lift the weight until the eyes are in the sleep position. This will assure that the water putty does not interfere with the movement of the eyes. Gently lower weight and let head lie face down until the putty is completely dry.

Your mechanism should now work smoothly. If it does not, use your finger to gently remove putty from one side of the eyes. Place a little glue on this hard piece of putty and replace it back inside the head, letting it slide gently towards the eye. This repositioning will give the eyes a little more room to rotate.

Be ready to amaze your friends!

Costuming
Dress your Laughing Jumeau in an outfit appropriate for the period about 1900 - 1930. This gives you a wide range of fashion choices. You can get great ideas from doll and costuming books such as Victorian Fashions, Vol. II 1890-1905 by Ulseth and Shannon.
His or her costume could be a simple cotton frock, sailor suit, toddler type rompers, or an exquisite silk and lace dress. Patterns for the suit, hat and leggings on my boy doll are included in the Petite wardrobe pattern available from Seeley’s.

All molds, porcelain slip, worksheet, body, Mohair Locks, body stain, patterns and china painting and casting supplies available from Seeley’s. Supplies for setting eyes can be found in most craft and hardware stores. Purchase wig from Kemper Doll Supplies and eyes from Global Dolls.

Material and Credits:
Head Mold: S349 Petite Laughing Jumeau
Optional Mold: BALB9300 5.5” body mold
Porcelain slip: Lady White
Doll Size: 7.5” (19cm)
Head Circ.: 4.75” (12cm)
Eye Size: 6mm round glass
Worksheet: WSFD24 Laughing Jumeau  worksheet
Boy Wig: MOWIGETTE14 Golden Chestnut Mohair Locks
Girl Wig: Kemper’s “Little Angel”
Patterns: CP1202 Petite wardrobe, including dress, jacket and skirt, boy’s  suit and harem outfit
CP948 French frock, underwear, bonnet and leather shoes

Casting and Cleaning Supplies:
Slip Thinner
Head Lupe
KwikClean Brushes

For Further Study:
Coleman, The Collector’s Encyclopedia of Dolls, Vols. I and II
Porot and Theimer, S.F.B.J., Capitvating Character Children
Seeley, M., The Dollmakers Workbook, Baby Dolls, Vol. II
Seeley, M., Fabulous French Bebes
Theimer and Theriault, The Jumeau Book
 
Stephanie Ehmen is a DAG Triple Crown of Dollmaking Educator, DAG Millie winner, Seeley Area Manager and traveling Doll Artisan Guild Instructor specializing in all aspects of porcelain dollmaking. Stephanie works out of her home near San Antonio, Texas.

For further information about this project, you may contact Stephanie at: 
565 Short Circuit, Bulverde, TX  78163, Phone: (830) 980-2745, Fax: (877) 495-9787, Email: srehmen@gvtc.com

For information about Doll Artisan Guild seminars contact:
Doll Artisan Guild
P.O. Box 1113
Oneonta, NY 1380, USA
Phone: (607) 432-4977, Fax: (607) 432-2042
Email: info@dollartisanguild.org
Website: www.dollartisanguild.org